DETERRENTS
Bird Scare Tape- A shiny, and reflective, metallic flash tape that you can tie to trees, windows, or buildings to frighten birds away. Apparently the color looks like fire to the birds and they will be persuaded to stay away from fruit trees and crops that you are trying to protect. Comes in a 150’ roll.
Cedar Zone- This product uses concentrated cedar oil to create a chemical-free barrier around your yard and garden that will keep out unwanted insects. Use with a hand pump, backpack or hose-end sprayer, and wet apply around the perimeter of area that you want to keep clear of pests. Use 2-3 times within the first week of application and repeat with monthly applications, or as needed.
Copper Tape- This is a 15’ roll of 1” wide copper tape, that has an adhesive backing on it and looks much like a roll of masking tape. Copper is able to conduct a low level of electricity, and when the big moist foot of a snail or slug comes into contact with the metal, a shocking sensation occurs to the mollusks and they will not proceed across the span. Over time the copper will get dirty and build up a patina that restricts the electrical current and will render the copper tape ineffective. To remedy this, simply take a green scrub pad and/or lemon juice and wipe the copper clean. This product can be used to keep snails and slugs out of trees, containers and raised garden beds, and away from pet dishes and patio furniture.
Floating Row Cover- This is a 6’ x 20’ permeable mesh cloth that can be used as both a protective cover for seeds while they are germinating and as a shelter for small delicate plants when they are too tender to protect themselves during cold and light frost conditions. The construction of the cloth allows water to pass through to the plants and excess heat to escape out, all the while remaining light enough for emerging sprouts to lift up and support as they grow. If germinating seeds, remove when the sprouts are 3-4” tall. When using the blanket to protect larger plants, remove when flowering begins so that pollination becomes possible.
Hav-a-hart Animal Traps- These are our live animal traps and come in a range of sizes, enabling you to catch and release, mice, squirrels, cats, opossums, skunks, and raccoons. The traps are all activated when the targeted animal enters the trap while going after some delectable bait that you have provided, and then steps on a treadle, which ends up dropping a door behind the animal and trapping it. All of the traps have protected handles for carrying, thus ensuring that you cannot be bit or scratched by the frightened captive. Once trapped, the animals can be taken far away and relocated, or handed over to the proper authorities.
Hot Pepper Wax- This product is essentially a concentrated pepper juice that takes advantage of the powerful alkaloid, capsaicin, which in small, natural levels gives peppers their heat and zing. However, our hell-acious friends at Hot Pepper Wax Inc have taken hot cayenne peppers and concentrated the capsaicin to make a powerful liquid that is diluted, and then applied, via a sprayer, onto the foliage of infested plants. Hot Pepper Wax is used to effectively control and repel aphids, cabbage loopers, caterpillars, spider mites and white flies. While the product is labeled as an insect repellent, I feel that a lot of cellular disruption and death occurs when this is sprayed onto soft-bodied creatures. This offers a warning for another soft-bodied creature, us humans, so be careful and wear eye, mouth and skin protection when spraying this stuff around.
Mole Repellent- This product is used to protect lawns and gardens from the damage caused by burrowing moles, voles, gophers and armadillos. It contains 75% castor bean oil and 25% soybean oil and when soaked into the ground, will coat roots, seeds, worms and grubs with this indigestion causing mixture. Soon after feeding, the pests will leave your garden and not want to return for several months. At the first sign of underground activity, simply attach the ready-to-use, hose-end sprayer to any garden hose and thoroughly wet down the invaded portions of your yard. One bottle is enough to cover 6200 square feet. Mole Repellent is easy and safe to use and will not harm plants, kids or pets.
Tanglefoot- Often the first, and most effective step in controlling aphid, mealybug, scale and white fly problems in trees and large ornamental shrubs, is to get rid of, or eliminate ants from the affected plants. Ants are industrious farmers, who raise sucking insects and harvest their sweet, sticky secretions for feeding to their queen and her nest. This is where Tanglefoot comes in. Tanglefoot is made from castor oil, natural gum resins and vegetable wax and is a sticky goo that can be used to create a barrier that is impassable to the insidious ants. To use, take a piece of cloth, masking tape or tree tape and snuggly lay down a two inch wide section of the material on the trunk of the tree, 12-18” above ground level. Onto this material, slather a liberal layer of Tanglefoot by using a Popsicle stick or similar piece of wood. This action creates a barrier that ants cannot cross, and as a result they can no longer reach, protect and harvest from, their insect livestock. It is important that you eliminate all other possible avenues of access for the ants onto your plant, or else they will render the Tanglefoot application useless. This means that the leaves of the tree cannot be touching the ground, other plants, fences or utility wires, as all of these provide access for ants. Once ant access to the tree has been effectively cut off, you can treat the remaining insect infestation with some sort of insecticidal spray, or just feed Landscape Mix and worm castings to the tree, and let Mother Nature do her thing and clean up the infested plant.
Tree Netting- When you are looking to protect your trees, shrubs, fruits and vegetables from birds, and deer too, look no further than this easy to use, and non-toxic barrier. Made of durable polypropylene plastic, and then treated with special inhibitors to prevent ultraviolet radiation damage, this 14’x14’ net can cover one fruit tree or a section of your garden from predation by those winged devils, The Birds. Each net can last for 3-5 years before it eventually falls apart, and is rendered unusable.
PEST CONTROLS
Black Hole Gopher Trap- Here is a simple to set and deploy gopher trap that can be easily cleaned and reused time and time again. To use, find a fresh gopher mound and dig down until you reach the main tunnel, usually 8-14” below the soil surface. Then place one, or ideally two, traps down into the tunnel, each one flat on the floor of the tunnel and facing out in opposite directions. Next, seal off all light into the tunnel by placing a cover, such as a board, over your newly excavated hole and then kick back and wait for the death to rear its pretty head. For increased success, trying setting traps in the evening, and baiting them with carrots, which are one of their favorite foods.
Caterpillar Killer- Contains a lethal bacteria, Bacillus thuringiensis, Bt, which targets a narrow section of the insect world, caterpillars and other insects with non-jointed knees. This product comes as a concentrate and when diluted and sprayed onto the top and bottom sides of affected foliage will remain an active killer for several days before breaking down and dissipating through exposure to sunlight. Once eaten by a caterpillar, Bt will cause gastrointestinal problems, and lead to dehydration and the death of the animal. Usually a solid application of Caterpillar Killer, followed 7-14 days later by a lighter application, will give you control over an infestation of cabbage loopers, cut worms, army worms or similar creepy, crawly creatures.
Coddling Moth Trap- Codling moths are worldwide pests that damage the fruits of apple, pear, and quince during the insect’s worm stage, and can infest every fruit in an orchard if left unchecked. The worms burrow through the fruit, leaving brown frass and tunnels, often rendering the fruit unsuitable for eating. Adult female moths emerge 3-5 times per year, depending on climate, to lay their eggs on the developing fruit. It is during these “flight times” that you can use an effective pheromone trap, such as this, to lure and capture the easily confused adult male moths, before they have a chance to do their thing, with the all too willing lady moths. Each box contains 2 traps and 2 pheromone lures, which should each last 4 months.
Diatomaceous Earth- Composed of the tiny, sharp, crystalline skeletal structures of ancient sea creatures, diatomaceous earth makes an effective barrier, repellent and killer of small soft-bodied, crawling insects. This is a powdered substance that works by cutting through the exoskeletons of insects as they come into contact and crawl across it. The abrasive actions causes the insects to dehydrate, dry out, and die. Use by sprinkling onto and around plants to control, aphids, ants, mealybugs, pill bugs, caterpillars, earwigs and other gross stuff. Be careful not to breathe in or get into your eyes when applying, use proper protection.
Dormant Spray Oil- This is a petroleum oil product that comes ready-to-use, with a hose-end attachment, and is sprayed onto roses, ornamentals, and fruit and nut trees while they are leaf-less and dormant in the fight against spider mites, scale and aphid eggs. Typically, two application per dormant season are enough to stave-off any infestations in the following seasons. Do not spray plants once the leaf and flower buds have begun to break in the spring, at this point you can burn the plants and cause them to jettison their new leaves and fruits. One 32 oz bottle is enough to dose 12 mature trees, once.
Fly Catcher- Here is the classic dangling flypaper that you last saw at granny’s, in the 70’s. Each pack contains 4 spools of sticky paper that will not allow flies to leave, once they have landed upon it. Simply uncoil each section of flypaper from its tubular container and hang from the ceiling with the provided thumbtack. Once the paper has been completely covered with flies, take down, discard, and hang up a new one. Try to avoid touching the paper, it is really sticky and gooey.
Fly Trap- This is a very basic, yet effective flytrap, that comes as a plastic bag, with a one-way entrance and an added pheromone attractant that is activated when you add water to the trap sack. Hang the self-contained unit near horse stalls, compost piles, picnic areas and outdoor living areas, which you want to rid of pesky flies. Each trap will last for 2-5 months, depending on the size of the problem that you are trying to eliminate. Once filled, remove the filled bag and put out another if the problem is persisting.
Insect Killer- A liquid concentrate that combines Pyrethrins with Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids to make a make a more potent killer than Insecticidal Soap. Use this product when you are battling a heavy infestation, or when you absolutely need to knock down your pest problems today. Use Safer Insect Killer to battle aphids, spider mites, mealy bugs, white flies, caterpillars, and other soft-bodied insects on your fruits, nuts, veggies and ornamentals. Dilute the concentrate and spray on to all affected parts of your plants.
Insecticidal Soap- Made by the Safer Company, this product uses Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids to take down, and kill soft-bodied insects such as aphids, spider mites, mealy bugs, thrips and whiteflies. Use Insecticidal Soap at the first sign of pest activity on your flowers, trees, vegetables, and ornamental shrubs. Comes as both a concentrate, and in a ready-to-use pump sprayer. In either case you want to apply to all affected leaf and plant surfaces. Spray the tops and bottom of leaves just up to the point when runoff begins to occur. Continue to apply at 4-7 day intervals, until the problem has been eliminated.
Macabee Gopher Traps- We consider this to be the most effect way to rid your yard and garden of gophers. These are simply designed, spring traps that snap shut and impale their target when the unfortunate tunnel travelers come into contact with and trip a pressure plate. When going after gophers, first locate a fresh pile of dirt and dig down the hole until you reach the main lateral tunnel, usually 8-14” below the soil surface. Since gophers travel both directions in their tunnels, it is recommended that two traps be set, each one facing, or pointing out an opposite direction. Next, place a board or similar covering over the excavated hole. This will keep light out of the tunnel and not clue in the gopher that something is amiss in his passageway. Gophers make frequent patrols through their network of tunnels and can often be trapped within a hour. Older gophers can become trap savvy during their lifetimes and may need the added enticement of a bait, such as carrots or California poppy roots, in order to run into, and set off a trap. These are re-usable traps that can last for several years and record numerous kills if they are properly cared for.
Mosquito Bits and Dunks- This is a biological mosquito control that employs the bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis and targets a very narrow window of species, in this case, the larval stage of mosquito. Use either of these products in flower pots, tree holes, bird baths, roof gutters, rain barrels, old tires, or in any body of standing water that may prove to be a breeding ground for mosquito. Mosquito Dunks float at the water surface and will continue to be effective for 30 days; each dunk will treat 100 sq ft of surface area. Mosquito Bits are granulated and can easily be used when treating smaller bodies of water. This product is safe to use in your yard around pets and children, but should never be used to treat drinking water.
Mouse and Rat Traps- These are just old fashioned, yet still highly effective, snap traps that shut onto and kill mice and rats when the pressure pad is touched. Place baited traps in attics, garages, behind appliances, or anywhere that you have noticed rodent activity. This is the only trap that we highly recommend for the dispatch of rats.
Neem Oil- This is a 100% natural, simple to use and totally biodegradable product. Squeezed from the nut of the neem tree, neem oil does not kill the pests that it comes into contact with, but instead affects their behavior and physiology. While subtle, neem’s effects such as repellence, feeding and oviposition deterrence, growth inhibition, mating disruption and chemo-sterilization are now (again) being considered more desirable than a quick knock-down in integrated pest management programs. To use, first heat the container and the oil to above 65 F and return it to a liquid state. Next mix 4 tsp of neem, and 1/4 tsp of liquid dish soap into each quart of water and liberally spray onto the top and bottom sides of all leaf, branch and trunk surfaces. Failure to add the soap into the mixture will result in the clogging up of your sprayer, so take it from me, add the soap.
Neem can also be used as a fungicide. (See below)
Orange Guard- Orange Guard’s active ingredient is d-Limonene, which is steam distilled from orange peels. D-Limonene is nature’s own solvent and insect repellent. The solvent action dissolves the waxy exoskeleton of insects, clogging the spiracles (how they breathe) and they suffocate. The residual repellence of d-limonene stems from the fragrance of the orange peel, which most people find pleasant, but insects avoid. To use, spray directly onto ants, fire ants, roaches, palmetto bugs, fleas, silverfish and other insect pests. If you are using Orange Guard to treat pest problems on plants, dilute the material 1:4 with water, before applying.
Organicide- Organicide is an organic insecticide that targets and kills 25 problem insects and a fungicide that works to control 4 major diseases. Formulated from sesame oil, edible fish oil and lecithin, Organicide works to effectively smother and suffocate soft-bodied insects such as spider mites, aphids, thrips, chinch bugs, whiteflies, mealy bugs and scale insects. The oils in this product also contain and control fungal outbreaks of powdery mildew, black spot on roses, helminthesporium, and greasy spot on citrus. Organicide is safe to use on a wide variety of plants and even feeds and strengthens plants through the fish oil component.
Pantry Pest Traps- These are highly effective sticky traps that use a pheromone lure to attract and then catch moths that are commonly found in and around dried goods and foods such as wheat, cornmeal, bread, crackers, seeds and nuts. Each box contains 2 traps and 2 lures. Place traps in your basement, pantry, kitchen, garage or where ever pest problems are occurring. Lures should last for three months and can be disposed of with your household trash.
Pesticidal Spray Oil- A spray concentrate that is made of 96% Canola Oil, and can be used to stop and smother the adult, larval and egg stages of aphids, mites, scale, mealybugs, leafhoppers, psyllids, whiteflies and other soft-bodied insects. This versatile product can be used indoors, outdoors and in greenhouses, as a dormant or growing season insect spray. Mix according to the label directions and spray the foliage and insects until they are wet. Once applied, Pesticidal Spray Oil breaks down within a few days and does not persist in the environment.
Rat Zapper- This is a trap that works by having a rat step onto a metal pad and completing an electrical circuit. This results in 2000 volts of electrical juice coursing through the doomed rats body and killing it. Traps seem to work for a little while and then their effectiveness wanes. Either the rats get wise to the electricity or the lingering smell of charred rat does not strike their fancy. Typically, this product appeals to sadists and morons, yet we continue to sell it.
Rode-Trol Mouse, Rat and Squirrel Bait- Rode-trol is a fairly new product that works by physically disrupting the water absorption capabilities of targeted rodents. Unable to get hydration, the rodent will become lethargic and then fall into a coma and die. Sounds totally humane to me man. The product comes in a large pellet form and is deployed by placing out in feeding stations that are in the areas of infestation. Monitor the activity at these stations every day and refill them as necessary. The active ingredient in Rode-trol is corn oil concentrate and is thusly safe to use around your children, pets and wildlife. However, this will not hold true if your household pets are small rodent-like mammals.
Sluggo- Outside of poultry, this material is the easiest, most effective and safest way to control and eliminate slugs and snails, that I have come across. Made up of 20% iron phosphate and 80% inert stuff, this is a naturally occurring substance that is okay to use around children, pets and home. It only seems to be bad news for the mollusks who are attracted to it. Sluggo comes as a small white pellet, which can easily be thrown and strewn around your yard, garden and containers, basically, anywhere snails and slugs might like to hang out. I usually do a light application, 5-10 individual pellets per square foot, around my garden and then do heavier applications, 20-30 pellets per square foot, in the cool, moist places where I know that the snails like to be during the day. Usually an initial application, at the first sign of snail and slug activity in the spring, followed in 10 days by a lighter dosage, will get any problem under control for the year. Additional applications into “hot spots” may be necessary as the year progresses. A 2 1/2 pound jug should be enough to treat a typically yard for one year.
Monterey Garden Insect Spray- Spinosad, a rare and unique bacteria, is the active ingredient in the Monterey Garden Insect Spray and is used to control a variety of insect pests, including fruit flies, caterpillars, leafminers, thrips, sawflies and leaf beetles. Spinosad kills susceptible species by causing rapid excitation of the insect nervous system. Spinosad must be ingested by the insect, and as a result, has little effect on piercing and sucking, and non-target predatory insects. Insects die within 1-2 days after ingesting the active ingredient. This product does not effect beneficial insects, including bees, and can be used as a part of your IPM program. Available in a pint bottle.
Spray Oil- This 99% petroleum oil product is brought to us from the bastards at Lilly/Miller, The White House and OPEC. While I wouldn’t use this shit, you can use it to protect your fruit trees, shrubs and ornamentals from the unsightly effects of spider mites, scales, and aphids during either the dormant or growing seasons. Follow the specific directions on the bottle for mixing and then apply to all plant and leaf surfaces, up to the point when runoff occurs.
Termite Prufe- This product is used to prevent and fight infestations of termites, wood destroying beetles, carpenter ants, wood rot and mold. Termite Prufe is effective for all interior and exterior lumber, plywood, logs and wood form composite structural
Components. To use, mix one pound of powder with one gallon of water, and paint or spray onto all dry, exposed wood surfaces. Allow to dry, and then apply a second coat within 1-24 hours. This solution will continue to penetrate deep into wood and does not break down, giving long lasting protection. One gallon of mix will cover 200 sq ft of wood surface. The active ingredient in this product is Disodium Octaborate Tetrahydrate and when applying, you should wear a safety mask and protective clothing. Termite Prufe also comes in a ready-to-use, 22 oz spray bottle that will cover 34 sq ft of wood surface area.
Terro Ant Killer- A liquid solution of water, sugar and borax, Terro Ant Killer appears to be a sweet, sugar-based form of food, that worker ants take back to their nest and use to feed the queen and her larval young. Unbeknownst to the ants, they are slowly building up a toxic dose of boric acid in their systems, which will lead to the demise of the entire nest if a constant supply of the food is kept available for 2-4 weeks time. This product comes either in pre-filled bait stations or in a single bottle that your can distribute out on your own. Place material right in the traffic pastern of the ants, wherever you find that they are bothering you. Safe to use around people and pets.
Terro Ant Killer Outdoor- We recommend using this product to form a barrier between the great big outdoors from your house or other building. This is a granulated form of permethrin that you shake out of the convenient, resealable bag. This product can be used to form a barrier around your house. Shake the permethrim based granules out of the bag in a swath 5’wide. Works by poisoning the targeted insects when they come in contact with the granules. Long lasting pest control. used to control ants, cockroaches, Spiders, fleas, ticks and other insects. 1 pound is enough to cover 500 sq ft. Available in 3 pound bags.
Tin Cat- Here is the most effect device that we sell for the live capture and control of mice. A simply designed, 14x8x2” metal box has two one-way entrances that allow mice to enter, but not exit. Bait the trap with nuts, pet kibble or other appealing mouse food, set in an area of mouse traffic and then check daily. Here at the store we have caught as many as 12 mice at a time, and we have heard tales of people scoring up to 17 a day. Once you have bagged a mouse or two in your sweet new trap, you can take the trap to a nearby field or despised neighbors place and set the cute little guys free by simply opening the hinged lid and letting the scared mice hop out and scurry away. Fuck that guy anyway.
Ultra-Fine Spray Oil- This a great, year-round, pesticidal oil that is effective in killing and controlling aphids, leafminers, mealy bugs, mites, white flies and other soft-bodied insects, as well as scale and powdery mildew, on everything from vegetables, to ornamentals, to fruit trees and beyond. Thoroughly spray onto the tops and bottoms of all of the foliage on the infested plants. Perform follow up applications every 1-2 weeks, or until the pest problems have been eliminated. Each 32 oz bottle Ultra-Fine can make up to 25 gallons of spray. Ingredients: Paraffinic Oil 98.8% and Emulsifiers 1.2%.
Yard and Garden
Yellow Jacket Trap- This is a disposable trap that uses a pheromone attractant to bring yellow jackets in through a one-way trap door and then keeps them inside where they will meet their maker. To use, follow the simple instructions to open the bag, add the required water and then hang in an area such as a picnic spot or porch that you want to keep clear of yellow jackets. Each trap will last 2-5 months or until filled up with bodies. Once filled, dispose of the used sack and deploy another.
FUNGICIDE
Bi-Carb Old Fashioned Fungicide- This fungicide contains microencapsulated potassium bicarbonate as the active ingredient. To use, mix with water and apply with a sprayer to any affected foliage.
Copper Soap Fungicide- Here is a ready-to-use, 32 oz hand-pump sprayer that has been loaded with 0.08% copper octanoate and 99.92% inert ingredients. This lethal formulation creates a strong weapon in the fight against the powdery mildew, black spot, leaf and fruit spot, downy mildew, fruit rot, late blight and rust that attack your roses, ornamentals and vegetables. To use, simply mist down and wet all affected plant surfaces at 7-10 day intervals, or as needed. Re-apply after rain. One bottle will cover 100 square feet of garden space.
Garden Fungicide- This is a sulfur based, liquid concentrate, that can be diluted down and then sprayed onto the foliage of your flowers, fruits, vegetables and ornamentals when confronted with powdery mildew, black spot and /or rust. When mixing for black spot and rust, use 8 Tbl per gallon of water, and for powdery mildew, 4 Tbl per gallon. Continue spraying every 7-10 days, until the problem has been corralled and brought to its knees. Do not spray when temperatures exceed 85 F.
Neem Oil- When applied as a fungicide, neem is most effective as a preventive measure, or when the symptoms of rots, mildews, rusts, scab, leaf spot and blights are just starting to appear. By spraying and coating the leaf and plant surfaces, you can stop the germination of fungal spores. Mix at the rate of 5 Tbl neem oil and 1 Tbl pure castille soap per gallon of water. Continue applying every 5-7 days, until the diseases have been controlled. Not using the pure castille soap, or other suitable surfactant will result in your sprayer becoming clogged.
Sulfur Dust- Here is a powdered sulfur that is recommended for use as both a dusting fungicide and one that can be diluted in water and sprayed on to effected plants and foliage. This material is recommended for use when combating powdery mildew, apple scab, blossom blight, brown rot, citrus thrips, rust and spider mites on roses, grapes, citrus, fruit trees, flowers, vegetables and ornamentals. Be careful to not use on or near sulfur sensitive plants such as cucumbers, melons and squash. Do not use when temperatures are above 90 F, you can end up burning the plants that you are trying to protect. Our sulfur dust is made by the Grant Company, comes in a 20 oz canister and is 92% pure.
PREVENTATIVE THERAPY
Beneficial Blend
Kelp Sea Life
Maxi-Crop
Earthworm Castings
Landscape Mix